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By Ana Elena Sastrias, Certified Aromatherapy Teacher Bodily odour, or bodily smell, is usually caused by sweat glands, particularly in the armpits, groin, feet, and mouth. Some diseases and even potential health issues like hormone fluctuations, diabetes, metabolic disorders and cancer may be detected by specific bodily smells caused by bacteria. Low levels of Magnesium and Zinc and unbalanced levels of Insulin in the body may also cause some Bodily Smell issues. Hyperhidrosis, the condition that causes the sweat glands to over produce sweat, can be an issue causing stinky feet or stinky armpits. Bad oral hygiene and even apnea can cause bad breath. Lactose Intolerance may cause some bodily odours too. Also, another indication of production of bodily smell can be related to low level of Proteins and Fats. Inside our Body: the Upper Respiratory Track, Digestive, Urinary and Reproductive Systems can produce Bodily Smells by being in contact with bacteria or metabolic disorders presenting difficulty processing food or milk and hormonal imbalance. Bodily odours can come in different categories: Sour, Rancid, Creamy, Cheesy, Sweaty, Yeasty (often associated with vaginal discharge). A condition that makes people smelling like rotten fish is called Trimethylaminuria. This condition is a metabolical condition with no cure, but treatment to reduce the symptoms by prescribing very specific diet avoiding specific food like: milk, eggs, liver, peas, beans, peanuts, brussel sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, fish oil supplements, soya products, seafood and fish that are not just fished from fresh water. Also, the use of specific soaps and lotions and managing stress, anxiety and depression may contribute to a better bodily odour. The mouth is a perfect environment for all types of bacteria to grow. When the bacteria breaks down substances inside our mouth, they create foul smelling byproducts. This leads to bad breath and dental side effects. Bad smell in the mouth, “bad breath”, indicates there is an infection in the body, either in the mouth, digestive system and even sinus infections affecting the throat. Upper respiratory track infections can also show symptoms on the tongue and produce bad smell in the mouth. Allergies can play a role, like “hay fever”, with watery eyes, dripping nose and stuffy nose, in producing bad breath smell. When having a Blood Sugar Imbalance, causing burning fat to gain energy, instead of burning sugar. Fat burning produce ketones in the body producing a Fruity Bodily Smell in the mouth. When having Lactose Intolerance, bad breath smells like spilled milk or cheesy, may indicate an improper digestion of milk producing digestive issues like gas and bloating usually accompanied with lactose intolerance. Always have Mint handy for bad breath and also have a routine in Oral Hygiene daily at least 2 times a day. Another aspect that may alter the body chemistry, in the case of women is Pre-Menopause, Menopause and Post-Menopause. The low oestrogen levels caused by Menopause, increase body odour due to higher relative testosterone levels, which attract more bacteria to sweat. Reduced oestrogen leads to hot flashes and night sweats, increasing perspiration. This hormonal shift can change sweat composition, resulting in a stronger, more pungent smell. Low oestrogen also contributes to the skin causing an increase in sebum production, contributing to a stronger body smells. As part of Menopause, Anxiety and Stress can trigger the apocrine glands to produce “stress sweat” which is stronger than normal sweat. Personal Hygiene is important, sensible deodorant products, clothing and life style including diet. The Loss of Sense of Smell and Some of its Causes. As to Olfactory Dysfunctions, like Anosmia and Ageusia, they involve the incapacity of detecting smells or loss of smell and the incapacity of detecting flavours or loss of taste. Anosmia can be a condition triggered by anxiety and chronic stress or a nasal condition commonly linked to viral infections, in recent times we can consider COVID-19. The Brain chemistry and structure can be affected by Chronic Stress affecting the Olfactory tract and decrease GABA levels, which are involved in the processing of scent. When there is a Cortical Amygdala Dysfunction associated by Anxiety, there is a reduced odour discrimination and identification, likely because the brain structures in the Limbic System (the amygdala and olfactory cortex) responsible for the Emotions and Sense of Smell overlap. When there is Hyper-Vigilance, causing high levels of anxiety, this may cause odour sensitivity impairment, as the brain is over focused on detecting potential dangers or threats (like toxic smells), leading to a distorted sense of smell or perceived impairment. Where there is constant stress and anxiety in high levels and the experience of traumatic experiences, the sense of smell gets affected by symptoms of Anosmia. It is recommended as a treatment for Stress related Anosmia and Ageusia to use Mindfulness, Meditation, Counselling and Olfaction Training. People suffering from Anosmia and Ageusia and relative conditions like Dysosmia and Dysgeusia may present risk factors for depression and suicidal ideation. Also, there has been a research study stating that a deficiency of serotonin can lead to Anosmia and Ageusia. People suffering from Anosmia have feelings of loneliness, fear, depression and difficulties in forming social and sexual relationships and have poor personal hygiene. People suffering from Ageusia or Dysgeusia have taste disturbances or loss of taste, having negative impact in nutrition, leading to depression. The dysfunction of Smell and Taste can amplify the psychological distress and bringing poor quality of life. Are there people with no Bodily Smell? Reading the novel of Patrick Süskind “The Perfume”, always fascinated me the main character in the novel, “Jean-Baptiste Grenouille” who was born with an extraordinary sense of smell, but he lacked bodily smell. He could smell and categorise every smell around him and even in distances far away from him. But people around him were not able to detect on him any kind of bodily smell. I thought that was just part of the story in the novel, but indeed, there is a few people in the world that do not emit bodily smells. Having no noticeable body odour, or body smell, particularly in under ams or armpits, means the person has a genetic variant affecting sweat glands function, resulting in lack of compounds bacteria needed to produce smell. This trait is primarily linked to the ABCC11 non-functioning gene mutation and it is very common in East Asian populations. The ABCC11 non-functioning gene mutation is responsible for transporting substances to the armpits. Due to a mutation that stops this transport, the apocrine sweat glands do not secrete the compounds that bacteria requires to break down to create odour.
This non-functioning gene mutation of ABCC11 affects mainly people of East Asian descent (80% - 95%), while it is rare in people of African and European descent (2%). The reason these kind of people with this gene mutation do not smell, or have very low bodily smell is that there is a lack of nutrients produced in their sweat that the Staphylococcus hominid bacteria, related to the production of sweat, does not have enough sweat glands nutrients to produce sulfur-based compounds that smell. Another interesting characteristic of people with ABCC11 non-functioning gene mutation, is that they have dry or flaky earwax, rather than wet or sticky earwax. The ABCC11 gene is responsible for encoding a protein involved in transporting molecules across celular membranes. These proteins like lipophilic substances, bile acids, conjugated steroids, a component found in apocrine sweat and earwax which results in odour and wet earwax. One component of the sweat is an odourless S-glutathione conjugate, which it is used in certain types of bacteria, and the change of what is transported in the sweat means which bacterias are able tu survive in that transport. The S-glutathione conjugate provides the sweaty odour. People with ABCC11 non functioning gene mutation may have less sweaty armpits than people with the functioning version of the gene and bacteria cannot metabolise any organic compounds to produce typical bodily odour. People with GG and GA alleles - a type of gene variant - may have increased bodily smell. People with AA alleles may have little to no bodily smell. Other factors contributing to not having or almost inexistent Bodily Smell, unrelated to gene mutation, are Diet, Low-Stress levels, Nose Blindness. People who do not eat Garlic, Onions and Curry may have very reduced bodily odour. People experiencing very low levels of stress, have their apocrine glands not activated or have very low activation, leads to having no smell or very low smell. People exposed to their same smell, may present no sensitivity to their own smell thinking they do not present any smell. In this case the brain filters out a constant long-term stimuli.
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By Ana Elena Sastrias, Natural Aromatherapy Teacher Do Scents Change Our Minds? Before exploring how scents influence our emotions, it’s essential to understand what emotions are. Emotions are strong feelings that arise from one’s circumstances, mood, or relationships with others. They are physical and mental states triggered by neurophysiological changes, linked with thoughts, behaviours, and bodily responses. Emotions are essentially reactions to external or internal events and situations, shaped by the context in which they occur. Research has shown that different scents can evoke a wide range of emotional responses— shifting our moods and feelings in distinct, often powerful ways. How do Scents act on our Emotions? The connection between scent and emotion lies in the biology of our olfactory system and its direct link to the brain. When we inhale, aromatic molecules are captured by the olfactory epithelium, a region inside the nasal cavity that contains 6 to 10 million receptor cells. These cells have tiny hair-like structures called cilia, which are coated in a thin layer of mucus. This mucus is essential in trapping and transporting the scent molecules. The olfactory bulb—a structure about 2 to 5 square centimetres in size at the base of the brain—acts like a computer chip. It receives the information from the olfactory nerves, filters and partially decodes the scent, and passes the signal to the olfactory tract. From there, the signal travels to several brain areas, including: • The Amygdala • The Hippocampus • The Thalamus • The Orbitofrontal Cortex These regions are key components of the limbic system, the part of the brain responsible for processing memories and emotions. This is significant: smell is the only sense directly connected to the limbic system, which is why scents have such a strong emotional impact. The Healing Frequencies of Nature Natural olfaction gives us access to the vibrational frequencies of raw materials such as rose, jasmine, lavender, rosemary, and frankincense. Each of these plants carries unique energetic properties and healing potential. • Natural perfumery combines the art of creating aesthetically pleasing fragrances with the therapeutic benefits of natural raw materials. • Natural aromatherapy uses these materials specifically for healing purposes—to treat physical, emotional, or mental conditions. Emotions and Aromatherapy Since ancient civilizations, emotions have been studied and classified. Modern psychology often identifies six core emotions: • Joy
• Fear • Sadness • Anger • Shame or Disgust • Surprise Newer models propose seven or eight core emotions, with subsets branching out from each. One widely used tool is the Wheel of Emotions, which helps therapists and individuals identify complex emotional states and their interconnections. Natural aromatherapy has proven to be a valuable complementary therapy for emotions that become imbalanced or toxic—affecting our health, relationships, and mental clarity. For example: • Citrus scents (like orange, lemon, bergamot) are associated with joy, warmth, optimism, and confidence. Floral notes (such as rose and Roman chamomile) can reduce anger, frustration, and emotional tension. • Rosemary enhances alertness and improves memory retention. • Eucalyptus is used to refresh the space and relieve stress, clear the mind. • Sandalwood, Cedarwood have grounding properties helping to calm the nerves and increase focus. These scent-based therapies help individuals focus, rebalance, and reconnect with more harmonious emotional states. The Future of Emotional Scent Therapy With the advent of AI, new research is emerging in the field of animal emotions, decoding non-verbal expressions with up to 89% accuracy. This opens up exciting possibilities for understanding emotional communication not just in humans, but across species. Natural aromatherapists may soon work alongside counselors, psychologists, and even AI systems to address trapped or blocked emotions, supporting individuals in processing and releasing these feelings in a healthy and balanced way. Natural Perfumotherapy: The Art and Science of Emotional Scents Natural Perfumotherapy is a holistic discipline that unites: • Natural olfaction (how we perceive raw scents) • Fragrance design from an artistic and aesthetic point of view • Aromatherapy knowledge to promote emotional and physical healing This fusion creates a powerful tool for enhancing emotional well-being, expanding the possibilities for how we care for our minds and spirits—one scent at a time. If you want to know more about Natural Aromatherapy, enrol for a 4 weeks intensive online course with Ana Elena Sastrias. https://www.teachers-academy.org/learn-natural-aromatherapy.html How They Ground Us By Ana Elena Sastrias, Certified Natural Perfumer and Teacher The Earthy smell in Nature after a Summer rain, is called “petrichor” which is caused by a bacteria in the soil called actinomycete. Earthy Fragrances have the power to ground us, making us feeling calmed, reducing our stress, and evoking a connection to Nature. These earthy Fragrance notes are used in Wellness products for stress reduction, mindfulness, evok-ing memories and mood enhancement.
The ingredients creating an earthy fragrance are: Woods, Moss, Resins, Roots, Vetiver, Patchouli. Woods take a role in providing a grounding and comforting base note that can go from creamy, dry, dark, smokey, fresh, amber aroma facets: Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Bud-dha Wood, Tobacco, Eucalyptus, Palo Santo, Vetiver. Moss notes add a natural earthy, flo-ral and damp aroma facet: Oakmoss, Tree Moss. Roots, like Orris root have a powdery floral and earthy aroma facet. Ginger brings a shiny sparkling facet with earthy notes. Vetiver is a grass that offers woody and earthy aroma facet with a hint of spice. It grounds us. Patchouli is a very strong earthy aroma with a slightly sweet undertone, perfect as a base note and fixative. The aroma components from natural products have been used for mental, spiritual and physical healing for millennia. Aromatherapy came to be a therapy through the need to treat various disorders by us-ing “fragrance substances” from natural sources. Aromatherapy’s purpose is to heal a person’s mind, body and soul. Many ancient civilisations up to modern times have used aromatherapy, herbal medicine, and essential oils for the treatment of psychological and physical disorders such as headache, insomnia, eczema, stress-induced anxiety, depression and digestive problems. There are various methods in Aromatherapy to uses for healing, using “substances” in small quantities, including inhalation, massage or simple applications on the skin surface and, in some cases,“substances” can be administered internally via capsules. Among the various natural fragrant components, essential oils are the ones mainly used as therapeutic agents. These are highly concentrated volatile and complex mixture of aro-matic components obtained from different organs of the plant. There are about 17,500 aromatic plant species from different angiosperms families producing essential oils, particularly the Lamiaciaceae, Rutaceae, Myrtaceae, Zingiberaceae and Asteraceae families. Essential oils contain between 20 to 60 different components in various concentrations. These components are classified into two major groups: terpenes and aromatic compounds. The terpenes are the largest group used in natural fragrances. In Aromatherapy, the most used aromatic plants for the healing of variety of physical and psychological disorders are: Bergamot, Caraway, Eucalyptus, Geranium, Juniper, Laven-der, Lemon, Lemongrass, Mint, Orange, Peppermint, Pine, Rosemary, Sage, Tea Tree, Thyme and Ylang Ylang. Nowadays, a variety of consumer products such as candles, per-fumes, personal care products, fresheners, detergents, just name a few, have Aromatherapeuthic benefits as well. The Art of Natural Perfumery is no longer focused on just making perfumes from the aesthetic point of view. Aside from the aesthetics, there is also a therapeutical function impacting our health in a positive way. The fusion of Natural Perfumery and Aromatherapy is bringing “Perfumotherapy” as a new Art Form. The International Perfume Foundation (IPF) is offering this Certification in Perfumotherapy as a complementary certification from training in Olfaction, Natural Perfumery and Aromatherapy. Should you be interested in enhancing your Natural Perfumery skills, you are welcome to visit the variety of Certification Courses IPF offers. REFERENCES: “What causes the earthy smell after rain?” CGTN - Earth - Haylun, Wan - What-causes-the-earthy-smell-after-rain--Lgf4vwSxIA/index.html “Influence of Fragrances on Human Psychopysiological Activity: with special reference to human electroencephalographic response” - Sowndhararjan, Kandhasamy; Kim, Songmun - pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist Sage is utilized in perfumes for its aromatic and earthy qualities. It can add depth and complexity to fragrance compositions. Sage is often used in both men's and women's fragrances and is appreciated for its fresh, herbal notes. Sage is also added in food, infused in tea or burned as incense without realizing that it has long been considered sacred and a holder of true magical powers. Druids attributed to it the ability to resurrect the dead. As for Native Americans, they burned its branches to purify the soul. Nowadays, some shamans continue to use it before a ceremony to rid themselves of distracting thoughts. Sage's powers have been recognized worldwide for centuries. In Egypt, it is said that after a violent epidemic of plague, it stimulated the fertility of the survivors to repopulate the decimated city. It is also said to have protected four bandits who robbed the victims of the great epidemics. Upon their arrest, they confessed to coating themselves with a vinegar made from sage before each crime to avoid contagion. You still can purchase this vinegar today: it is the 4 Thieves Vinegar. In Europe, people did not hesitate to throw sage onto the witch's pyre or to use it to chase away demons. And even today, some people burn it to purify a place. So, is sage a bit of a magician? Perhaps, but you will see that it is also a healer recognized by the scientific community. In a competition with six other aromatic herbs in a study from the University of Rome, sage won the title of the "most antioxidant" plant. It easily surpassed the antioxidant champions like basil, parsley, and rosemary. Its virtues are now validated by numerous scientific studies. Its content of rosmarinic acid (also found in rosemary) makes it an excellent tonic and stimulant. It is therefore recommended for digestive disorders. It stimulates the liver, stomach, and intestines. It soothes pain and nausea. Traditionally, a leaf of sage was chewed after heavy meals to aid digestion. Sage is also considered as woman's best friend. If you are having trouble recovering from a long illness, sage can help you get back on your feet. It is highly recommended in cases of severe nervous fatigue and effectively relieves many symptoms such as weakness, depression, or loss of appetite. A study has also shown that sage boosts cognitive abilities and reduces anxiety in stressed individuals. It may even have a positive effect on the mood and memory of people with Alzheimer’s. Thus, when symptoms are moderate, taking 60 drops of sage in alcoholic extract daily for 4 months would significantly improve test results. Sage likes to take care of everyone, but it is particularly attentive to women. Thanks to its estrogenic action, it alleviates hormonal disorders, especially during menopause. It helps the body adapt to change and reduces hot flashes, depression, or dizziness. For women of childbearing age, sage would stimulate fertility and the onset of menstruation in cases of amenorrhea. It is also used in late pregnancy to promote the onset of labor by decreasing progesterone levels. However, it is better to avoid it if you wish to breastfeed, as it decreases milk production. It is also not recommended in cases of hyperestrogenism. Who has sage in their garden? The Provençals would not deny the healing virtues of sage, nor its excellent ability to season dishes. They even have a saying dedicated to it: "He who has sage in his garden needs no doctor!" Here are 6 ways to enjoy the benefits of sage: In food: it matches perfectly with fish or pasta In infusion: Let 15 to 20 g of leaves per liter (5 or 6 leaves per cup) steep for 10 minutes. Drink a cup after each meal and one before bed to combat night sweats. In decoction: Put 100 g of the plant per liter of water, boil for 5 minutes, then let steep for 10 minutes. You can then use it as a topical application for ulcers and other skin issues. In bath: Prepare sage in decoction, then pour the preparation into bathwater to combat rheumatic pain. In incense: "When burning White Sage incense, negative ions are released into the air and letting positive moods in us." Vennie Chou (Teacher at the Natural Perfumery Teacher's Academy) In natural perfumes (perfumotherapy): find hereby several perfumes composed with sauge.
CedarTé by Porcelaine Perfumery https://porcelainperfumery.com/collections/cedarte Chaparral by Illuminated Perfume https://www.illuminatedperfume.com/products/chaparral-natural-solid-perfume B is for Bison by Illuminated Perfume https://www.illuminatedperfume.com/products/b-for-bison-solid-perfume-in-glass-jar Agarita by Scents of the Texas Hill Country https://scentsofthetexashillcountry.com/shop/ols/products/texas-tubing Cypress Mill by Scents of the Texas Hill Country https://scentsofthetexashillcountry.com/shop/ols/products/willow-city-loop Willow City Loop by Scents of the Texas Hill Country https://scentsofthetexashillcountry.com/shop/ols/products/el-humo-in-luckenbach/v/WC-LOOP3 Soothing Jasmine by AES Creation Naturel ÆS Création Naturel - Wellness Line - Soothing Jasmine (has Clary Sage) Oil perfume fragrance in roll-on with Jojoba Oil Carrier. All these brands belongs to certified natural perfumers following the New Luxury Code and the IPF Standards for Natural Perfumery. An interview by Creezy Courtoy, Founder IPF Robert Tisserand is considered as a Legend in Aromatherapy. Today Aromatherapy and the use of essential oils are taught worldwide.
I had the chance to meet him in California during our IPF Scent of Healing event. When did you started talking about aromatherapy? What made you start? My mother went to Paris in 1967 to hear a presentation by Dr Jean Valnet, and she came back home with a copy of his book Aromathérapie. I was 18 and about to go to university, but I became fascinated by that book! I started selling essential oils in 1974 and in about 1977 I began giving one-day introductory seminars. Can you tell us about the education your parents gave you? Were they in relation with nature? My mother was a believer in alternative medicine (I don’t really know why!) so she would visit her doctor, but she would also go for acupuncture, herbal medicine, homeopathy etc. She also introduced me to aromatherapy, as she did a training course in London with Micheline Arcier, who learned from Marguerite Maury. Since you are now living in California, can you tell us the reason you left Europe? Is California more open to essential oils and nature? I moved from Brighton to California in 2000 because at the time I was married to an American citizen. Ann wanted to move back to the USA, and I was fine with that. Now I can’t imagine living anywhere else. You wrote so many books about aromatherapy, is it something more we can still write, or have you said everything? I wrote only three books! I’m not sure if there will be more, but I am revising Essential Oil Safety right now. Everyone has a mission in life, do you think you’ve reached your objective or do you think the path is much longer? I don’t see an end, and I’m glad that essential oils still excite me! Can you tell us about the difficulties you encountered to reach your objectives and what made you continue your mission? Initially the greatest challenge was that people in the UK did not know much about essential oils and aromatherapy, so I realized that education was needed, and that’s why I wrote The Art of Aromatherapy in 1977. I was advised by my accountant in 1978 that I was “flogging a dead horse” trying to make a living from selling essential oils, and he was right at the time. Another challenge was simply finding good information, but something wonderful happened in June 1993 - PubMed went public! (This is where we can find all the medical and essential oil research.) In your extensive career, what has been the most surprising or unexpected use of essential oils that you have discovered? Using tangerine oil as a fuel for motor vehicles. I was equally surprised to learn that there is a tangerine-scented bird in Alaska! How do you see the future of aromatherapy evolving in the next decade, especially with "advancements in technology and science"? There are really several aromatherapies. There is the multi-level marketing basket, the aromatherapist basket, the (new) wellness trend in perfumery and cosmetics, which largely involves essential oils, and the pharmaceutical basket. I cannot predict what will happen, but I’m encouraged to see that researchers and aromatherapists are communicating with each other. By Creezy Courtoy, IPF Founder and Chair In the quest for innovative approaches to cancer treatment, researchers are constantly exploring new avenues. One intriguing area of study is the connection between DNA research, epigenetics, and the use of scents to rebalance the organization of our cells. The International Perfume Foundation is leading the charge in this unique research, aiming to unravel the potential of scent-based therapies in curing cancer. This article delves into the fascinating world of epigenetics, the role of emotions, and the ongoing efforts to support this groundbreaking research.
Understanding Epigenetics and DNA Research Epigenetics is the study of changes in gene expression that occur without altering the DNA sequence itself. It examines how external factors, such as environmental influences and lifestyle choices, can impact the way genes function. By understanding epigenetic processes, scientists hope to uncover new approaches to prevent and treat diseases, including cancer. The Role of Emotional Shocks in Cellular Disorganization Emotions play a significant role in our well-being, but could they also contribute to cellular disorganization and the development of cancer? According to the proposed research, emotional shocks are believed to disrupt the harmonious functioning of our cells. These disturbances are thought to manifest as vibratory electric disruptions, affecting the cell's organization and potentially leading to the development of cancerous cells. Associating Scents and Olfaction with Cellular Rebalancing Drawing inspiration from the field of olfaction, researchers are exploring the potential of scents to restore cellular balance. It is suggested that certain scents, such as the electric impulsion (vibration) of roses or high-frequency plants, may possess the ability to rebalance the organization of cells. The precise mechanisms underlying this phenomenon are still being investigated, but it offers an intriguing avenue for further research. The International Perfume Foundation's Pioneering Research The International Perfume Foundation has taken up the mantle of investigating the potential therapeutic applications of scents and olfaction for cancer treatment. Their research aims to uncover the precise mechanisms by which scents can influence cellular organization and develop innovative scent-based therapies to combat cancer. However, to carry out this groundbreaking research, the foundation requires financial support in the form of donations. Supporting the Research Efforts As the International Perfume Foundation embarks on this ambitious research journey, your support can make a difference. Donations to the foundation will contribute to the funding necessary for conducting comprehensive studies, recruiting expert researchers, and acquiring advanced laboratory equipment. By supporting this research, you could help unlock a new frontier in cancer treatment, potentially offering hope to millions of people affected by this devastating disease. The intersection of DNA research, epigenetics, and scent-based therapies presents an exciting opportunity to revolutionize cancer treatment. The International Perfume Foundation's pioneering efforts to explore the link between olfaction, emotions, and cellular organization offer a fresh perspective in the fight against cancer. By supporting their research, you can play a vital role in advancing our understanding of this promising field and potentially contribute to the development of innovative cancer therapies. Together, we can strive to make a difference in the lives of those affected by cancer. by Françoise Rapp, Certified Natural Perfumer and Aromatherapist, Teacher at the Natural Perfumery Teacher's Academy Each season has a symbolism and a particular rhythm that influences both the body and the mind. It is therefore important to use essential oils and perfumed plants during each season to breathe or massage to preserve our physical, energetic, and emotional balance. Traditional medicines, Chinese or Indian, knew this well and the ointments or natural perfumes used then had a therapeutic role as well as one for pleasure. Each season corresponds to one element of Nature and to scents and flavors. In this article you will discover which perfumed plant extracts have an important role in the body and mind throughout the fall. The selection chosen is not exhaustive and only the predominant ones have been chosen for this article. Autumn in Traditional Chinese Medicine Let's start by understanding the energetic influences of this millennial medicine on the body and mind. In traditional Chinese medicine, it is understood that autumn is the season of the Metal element, the moment when nature changes its pace and slows down: the temperature drops and the nights get shorter, thus showing us the decline of Yang and the rise of Yin that begins to grow (yin season). The emotions associated with this season are sadness, melancholy, interiorization and contemplation: it is the season when the energy decreases and returns to the earth through the roots. It is therefore important to favor soft and comforting fragrances, even subtly spicy ones. Most importantly, olfaction is a profound healing sense and by breathing in natural essences according to the season, you preserve and enhance the body’s balance and wellness. The essences of soft woods, sweet spices (bark, roots, seeds), and honeyed leaves will bring this soft and reassuring warmth. In this article, you are going to discover what are the Fall scents that have healing influences; this is the way we work as perfumotherapists. I added a mushroom absolute to the fall selection because this one, although very little used, is in season! It is a rather original ingredient to work with as a natural perfumer and you will be able to discover it a little if you do not already know it. The sweet woods for soothing the body, mind and spirit in perfumotherapy A soft woody essence is subtle, understated and yet deep. It comforts, reassures, anchors energy, and soothes overly strong emotions. This often happens during this season because like any transitional season, body and mind must find their balance. I have chosen to present to you 3 soft woody notes: copaiba wood, guaiac wood and buddha wood. These are not the only sweet oaks; there are also sandalwood and rosewood for example. • Copaiba wood: It is in the heart of the Amazon that we find the copaíba, one of the largest trees in the Amazon that can reach up to 45 meters in height. The name Copaíba comes from the traditional language of Tupi Amazonia “Kopa-yba” which means “tree deposit” which refers to the precious sap that is inside the trunk. It is extracted through an incision in the trunk of the Copaíba tree, which must be 30 to 40 years old. This sap then gives a rich aromatic oil, considered one of the most precious natural products of the Amazon for its strong soothing, healing and anti-inflammatory properties for the skin. In natural perfumery, its subtly smoky note gives a lot of character. This species, like those of guaiac wood and buddha wood, are mostly used as a fixative, but they are much better than this secret place in a composition. Its authentic, wild-and-woody fragrance has very elegant masculine notes. • Guaiac wood The essence of guaiac wood has a warm and suave woody olfactory facet. It is obtained by steam distillation of wood chips and sawdust. Guaiac essence is semi-liquid in consistency. Originating from South America, it is also called Palo Santo in Spanish and its small bits of wood are burned like incense to perfume the house but not only. Traditionally, Palo Santo is a sacred wood used by shamans to purify and bring peace of mind and in the home. In natural perfumery, it is used as an enveloping warm base note in amber and chypre, leather and woody fragrances, a voluptuous floral based on orange blossom, champac, or an absolute rose. In aromatherapy, guaiac wood is recognized for its soothing and reassuring properties. It can then be simply used by simple olfaction or in synergy in a diffuser. • Buddha wood The essence of buddha wood is little used in natural perfumery and yet, its subtle, slightly leathery woodiness is of rare beauty in a natural perfume. Its essence is obtained either by gentle distillation with water vapor or by CO2. Originally from Australia (Queensland to be exact), buddha wood is a must in the composition of a niche amber, chypre, leather, or even opulent floral fragrance with tuberose or magnolia flower essence, for example. In aromatherapy, buddha wood is recognized for its meditative virtues to induce mindfulness. It can then be simply used by simple olfaction or in synergy in a diffuser. No one tells their story better than Wild Wood Oils The sweet spices to enliven the mood in perfumotherapy Sweet spices are also in the spotlight this fall. Fresh ginger with cinnamon bark and cardamom. They accompany and complete a natural perfume by bringing them a spicy, lively, warm and comforting facet. • Ceylon bark cinnamon differs greatly from its cousin, cinnamon leaf. Well known in aromatherapy, cinnamon bark has been known since antiquity. At that time it was used in the process of embalming. Cinnamon is mainly native to the tropical regions of Asia. Today, it is also produced in Sri Lanka, the Seychelles and Madagascar. Cinnamon is the oldest known spice and was one of the expensive spices popular on the spice route. The extraction of its essence is done by freshwater vapor. In natural perfumery, it accompanies woody accords (with Atlas and Texas cedar, the soft woods seen above), florals with amber notes, leathers that it softens. In aromatherapy, it acts on many ailments of the digestive system among others and it revives vital energy. It comforts and strengthens the natural defenses, a morale at half-mast. Cardamom is a very fragrant Indian spice widely used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine. Its preciousness is extracted from its small seed by steam. Originally from Sri Lanka and South India, it was brought back to the West from Antiquity for its many medicinal and olfactory virtues. Today, cardamom exhales its frank and refined notes in many perfumes, both masculine and feminine. In natural perfumery, it complements citrus compositions and green florals, modern and daring ferns. In aromatherapy, in addition to its multiple virtues on the digestive sphere, it is carminative. It restores a taste for life and brings a boost of positive energy to anyone who feels it consciously. Ginger has been known since the dawn of time for its therapeutic and culinary virtues. Ginger originates from China and was then brought to ancient Egypt… for the mummification of mummies! Yet from Antiquity, the Romans conquered by this intoxicating and almost miraculous spice imported it for its medicinal and aphrodisiac qualities but also for its intense peppery and rosy scent. Its essence is extracted by steam. Today, this spice continues to intoxicate our noses in both male and female fragrances. From great classics to niche fragrances. In natural perfumery, it is this lively top note that creates the irresistible hook; especially if it is built in an aphrodisiac accord of pink berries and grapefruit. Citrus, accords of delicate white flowers are sublimated. Be careful, however, of the right dose! In aromatherapy, ginger essence is also used for virtues on the digestive sphere and many others. It is by breathing it that people suffering from depression, anxiety, stress will experience a beneficial letting go. The honeyed tobacco leaf: from spiritual connection to elegant pleasure uses in perfumotherapy Autumn is also synonymous with leaves and while keeping the notion of enveloping sweetness of the season, there is one that is essential: tobacco leaf absolute. In perfumery, tobacco absolute is obtained by extraction with volatile solvents of different varieties of tobacco. Today, and because of nicotine, tobacco absolute exists with a reduced nicotine content. Tobacco originated in Central America and the habit of smoking this plant dates back at least 3,000 years. It is a plant revered and used as an offering by Native Americans who smoked it, burned it, offerred it as a gift to the spirits. Even today, it is a plant widely used in this way by shamans around the world. In natural perfumery, aromatic strength is the main characteristic of tobacco notes, which are found in different olfactory families such as woody, chypre or fern. Tobacco, however, offers other notes such as honey, almond, wax or even leather. Essentially present in men's perfumes, tobacco brings a certain elegance to compositions. Nevertheless, it sublimates some perfumes for women, for their greatest pleasure... Tobacco absolute is not used in aromatherapy but the symbolic heritage is so powerful that it can be used for spiritual reasons such as connecting with the Great Spirit. To conclude this article on the perfumotherapy scents of autumn, I could not avoid talking to you about mushrooms or porcini mushrooms to be more precise!
Typically in season, the boletus is appreciated in dishes but not only there. In natural perfumery, we use mushroom absolute. Its olfactory note is earthy and sweet, raw cocoa. It accompanies woody, gourmet, balsamic accords. In a delicate touch, it completes a mysterious floral for great seducers. It adds depth and complexity, which makes any composition more interesting in the right amounts. Be careful not to overdose! Did this autumn olfactory kit inspire you? Become a perfumotherapist and enrol in our French Natural Aromatherapy, Olfaction Training and French Natural Perfumery classes every first Monday of the month at the Natural Perfumery Teacher's Academy by Vennie Chou, Natural Skin Care Expert and Natural Perfumery Teacher's Academy Academician I have been learning about plants for many years. However, it was not until I learned about the basic philosophy of I-Jing, the Book of Changes, that I realized the communication and connections between living things. The word “I” in “I-Jing” means Chameleon. A chameleon reacts to its environment and changes its colour to respond and survive. Plants change their colours and scents in response to changes of seasons, temperatures, humidity and many other surrounding variations. Animals also respond to changes to occurrences in their physical environments, both expected and unexpected, to improve their well-being. These responses of plants and animals are their means of survival. One of my favorites of nature’s responses is tree resins. Tree resins are produced and secreted by certain trees when they are injured. The tree resins form coverings to heal the injuries. The resins are scented to deter insects and fungi to minimize infections. These scented tree resins are common ingredients used in perfumes and skincare products. Some examples of resins are Frankincense, and Myrrh. These scents are soothing, grounded, and calming to me. I like to use resins in skincare as they heal trees and thus, heal our skin. I recently learned about musk that comes from an animal called Civet. Civet cats originated in Africa. It has a body that looks like a cat and face of mongoose. The female and male Civet cats often produce scented secretion, Civet paste. The scent gland is near the peri-anal/ anus area. The secretion marks territory and is used as a way of communication when searching for mates. Fresh Civet paste looks and smells like fecal material. Some describe it as scent similar to urine. However, over time, the scent changes from fecal to floral. As a result, Civet paste is heavily used in perfume industry. Nevertheless, what happens to the intestinal flora or intestinal health, if these animals do not have a normal diet, living under stress and fear in captivity? What really is in the fecal paste when the paste is produced neither for marking territory nor looking for mates? As a result, what really goes in the perfume or musk from these animals? Natural Perfume is a Scent that Speaks. Often, when we develop a product, we only focus from the point when raw materials are collected to the manufacturing processes. We forget to think about the environmental changes, health and living conditions of the raw materials. Natural perfume is a reflection of how we treat the earth and the environment. It is scent that speaks. By Françoise Rapp, Certified Aromatherapist and French Natural Perfumer Expert What are Hydrolats? The distillation process of a plant or one of its parts leads to the development of two different products. At the exit of the still, in the essence, there are indeed two superimposed phases corresponding to the essential oil and the hydrosol. The latter is the aqueous phase most often located under the essential oil at the bottom of the essence, milky in color at the exit of the still. The word “hydrolat” comes from the Latin “hydro” which means “water” and from the French “lat” which means “milk”; this no doubt to recall the milky aspect in the essence, immediately after distillation, before decantation. A hydrosol is extracted from parts of the plant such as the flowering tops (lavender, leafy and needle-like branches, with berries (petitgrains, pines, eucalyptus, juniper, noble laurel, etc.), leaves (mint, lemon balm, etc.), bark (Ceylon cinnamon, sandalwood, …). A floral water is aptly named since it will be extracted from flowers, and we find among the most common: rose water, orange blossom water, and cornflower water. In the History of the Use of Plants We are renewing a real interest in the use of hydrosols and floral waters and know that distilled waters were probably already known to the Egyptians. The first indications of their knowledge comes to us from the writings of Synesios of Ptolomais and Zozymos of Panapolis who described in detail the distilling apparatus of the Egyptians. In the 6th century, Aetius of Amida, a physician and writer living in Constantinople, described empyreumatic distillation by hydro-diffusion. But it is from the 8th to the 11th century during the heyday of Arabian science that we find traces of various experiments such as those of Mesue the Younger, who describes distilled waters of rose and absinthe. Théophanes, doctor of Emperor Michael of Constantinople, recommended rose water as a remedy or Avenzoar, doctor to the Caliph of Morocco who used rose water and rose essential oil as a remedy. After the Crusades, knowledge spread to Europe… Through various writings of the time, it is known that distilled waters were the purpose of distillation – essential oils were then neglected. This period also corresponds to the first alchemical research. The appearance of the printing press promoted the transmission of knowledge. Ex: Walter Hermann Reiff (1556), doctor in Strasbourg gave many details on the distilling devices, the hydrosols, their production and their therapeutic actions. From the 16th century, aromatic waters were sold by apothecaries and then pharmacies at the end of the 18th century. From the 18th century (1708), at least 120 essential oils are listed and used particularly in perfumery. Knowledge and chemical discoveries were multiplying. The science of aromatherapy implemented by Gattefossé was more interested in essential oils than aromatic waters. These do not fall into oblivion, but are used as food flavouring and in the cosmetics industry. What are the most used hydrosols and floral waters?
Among the most used hydrosols and floral waters are orange blossom water, rose water, lavender water and Roman chamomile water, mint, lemon balm, blueberry, and clary sage. Did you know that hydrosols and floral waters are the perfect base for a natural, alcohol-free fragrance? For many, we have been talking about the toxic and harmful aspects of DEP, which is an ingredient added to perfumery alcohol in order to prevent it from being consumable. Many people are increasingly aware of the impact of aggressive products on the skin and in the respiratory system. Alcohol-free perfumes exist but their sale is centered on perfumed mists for young children. And yet, sensitive people, seniors, pregnant or breastfeeding women are customers who can enjoy natural perfumes without alcohol; see the whole population. Perhaps 100% vegetable perfumery can become a new kind of natural, healthy, and well-being perfumery. Perfume yourself with a mist composed solely of floral water or a hydrosol and natural essences! Certainly, the question that is generally asked when we approach the subject of this natural alcohol-free perfumery is the hold of the perfume on the skin, suspended in the air. Let's be honest, this natural perfumery is in no way comparable to existing natural perfumery and very far from conventional perfumery. What is different is the olfactory quality, the fact of reconnecting with the subtlety and the real vegetable notes either of the molecules which catch the nose not to let you go. It's another world of perfumery and totally different that we get used to. An alcohol-free perfume with a base of floral water is a perfume for oneself, not for others. We do good. We feel good. It's like a rejuvenating and beneficial ritual from Mother Nature. These are hyper-creative compositions for the perfumer with a few challenges: the fragrance of the base must match and complement the composition of the perfume formula. A dispersant must be used in order to dissolve the natural essences in this aqueous and fragrant base. What type of botanical perfume can we compose? Natural alcohol-free perfumes based on hydrosol or floral waters limit the choice of olfactory families. Are we going to favour more compositions such as fresh aromatic waters, green floral waters or not, a modern fern revisited in an aqueous base of mint, rosemary or laurel hydrosol? Learn how to dissolve natural essences in an aqueous phase. This Spring make up your own hydrosol or floral water and create an alcohol-free natural perfume. Share it with us on our social media. Do you want to follow your passion and become a professional certified natural perfumer? Enrol now to the French Natural Perfumery Course Spring session The course is taught in English, Italian (thanks to Andrej Babicky) and Arabic (thanks to Naziha Allalou) Olfaction Training and Aromatherapy to Accompany You Well During Fall by Françoise RAPP, IPF Chair France In the fall, I gathered all my sorrows and buried them in my garden. When April bloomed again and the earth and spring celebrated their nuptials, my garden was strewn with splendid and exceptional flowers. Khalil Gibran Fall is the season we go into soul connection, looking at what we have done so far to prepare for our winter retreat and the year ahead. It’s a difficult season for many as it marks the end of summer and its strong energy and the onset of winter. Losing the exciting summer light is difficult for many of us. In Traditional Chinese Medicine, autumn is linked with the energy of the lung, symbolized by melancholy and the work of the breath. This season, it is important to focus on real breathing work in order to open and lighten your emotions, to let go and reconnect with yourself. In many traditions, breath is the energy of life. The work of breathing increases vitality and dynamism. While physical exercise is work on the body, meditation on the mind, respiratory work acts on the emotions. When we breathe automatically, we exchange ½ liter of air roughly with each breath, but when we breathe consciously, we exchange 5 liters of air. Combine with breathing work, natural essences chosen for their properties on the psyche, you will thus increase the well-being of the body and also of the mind. In Traditional Indian Medicine, Pranayama is the 8th discipline of yoga and it focuses on the breathing work to balance the body and mind. For example, solar breathing or "surya bedhana", energises the body and mind, while lunar breathing, "chandra bedhana", on the contrary, promotes the inner calmness. Solar breathing is practiced by inhaling through the right nostril and exhaling through the left nostril. For lunar breathing, it is the other way around. When we accompany each breath with a natural essence, I advise you to pour one to three drops on a paper tissue to breathe prior the exercice. This fall, five essences will wonderfully help all the physical and energetic work to accompany you well during this season. They will help to relax the body, lighten the emotions, energize the vital energy, calm the mind and regain enthusiasm.
1. Bergamot essence awakens enthusiasm and joie de vivre while allowing you to let go of the mind. It goes very well with the essential oil of Roman chamomile and its honey-like note. 2. Roman Chamomile essential oil is solar. It brings the mind back to inner calm by allowing the mind to let go. It is the essence to fight against minor anxieties, anxiety and negative moods (in combination with the essence of bergamot). 3. Cardamom essential oil brings flavor back to life. It also helps alleviate the emotional burdens that you keep to yourself. Breathing in its essence helps to regain the desire for ... Mix it with bergamot and you will have a sparkling and joyful note that will make you want to sink your teeth into life. 4. Black spruce essential oil is the one that saves you from fatigue in the fall and also in winter. To breathe it is to dive into Canada's boreal forests. Its fragrance is woody, fresh and balsamic. It goes very well with other facets such as woods, balsamics, hesperides, ... 5. Scots pine essential oil stimulates the body by acting directly on the adrenal glands (it increases cortisol levels when used on the skin). It also brings a feeling of solidity and anchoring. Mix it with the essence of bergamot to make you feel light and light on the ground or that of black spruce to combat physical and mental fatigue. If you've never breathed as directed, don't be afraid to take the first step. This is the one that matters! |
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